We're gonna walk through a ground support rigging option right now. The key components of the ground support are gonna be the truss, base, sandbags or ballast, and cabinet. Our mounting method will also incorporate a wrap around clamp and some backer plates. We'll go ahead and start to install this so you can see every step and component along the way. So first thing you can do is go ahead and build your truss and attach them to the base plates. Once you have that done, prepare your ballast bags with gravel. Do not use sand. We recommend pea gravel for the bags because it's a much cleaner situation if a hole were to develop in the bag. When it comes to the weight that you're applying to the screen, we've called out in the playbook the appropriate amount of ballast that is needed, and that is gonna ensure a safe setup for you. We'll also call out if you're to attach your bases to your stage floor. Each base plate incorporates holes for mounting directly to the stage floor, but also introducing weight onto the plates will be necessary. All of those details specific to your screen are called out in the playbook. These are the core components of what the screen will attach to, so it's important that this be a very strong and safe solution to prevent tip over of your screen. The screen absolutely needs to be weighted properly, so follow that guideline within the playbook. Before you attach anything to the floor, first, we're going to establish the first row of cabinets. We don't want everything to be locked down and then find out we need to move it forward a foot or even left or right just by an inch or two. So that part will come into a different step. Right now, we just wanna distribute our truss and our ground support system in our rough locations of where they will be finally attached. For now, this is where we're gonna leave these, and we'll begin to establish our cabinets. We'll attach each cabinet to the truss using a wrap around clamp. The wrap around clamp will attach to each cabinet through the holes on the rear. We'll go ahead and insert the supplied bolt and twist that into place. There may be some situations where you might have to back off a half or full turn. That's okay as the pressure is going to be applied here once the clamp wraps around the truss. In this case, I'll go ahead and leave it snug. Now it's ready for attachment. At this point, you'll want to determine how far off the ground you're wanting your screen to be. Some situations, you might place the cabinets directly on the floor. In that situation, you'll wanna have a small strip of wood or unistrut to lift the screen about one inch off the floor. The reason for that is we need to be able to attach the module safely without floor or carpet being in the way. So if you're looking for the screen to be mounted as close to the floor as possible, keep in mind to introduce a small piece of wood or unit strut that the cabinet can sit on top of. After that, we can then go ahead and attach cabinets to the screen. If you're looking to raise and have the screen a couple feet off of the floor, then determine your line, and that will be your starting point for your bottom row. We're gonna work from the bottom up and from the center out. Follow your playbook for the spacing of the cabinets and where the trusses will be placed. In this case, you'll need a partner to hold the cabinet while the clamp is being fastened. So for our first panel, we'll have two clamps installed, one at the top, one at the bottom. As you begin installing your first cabinet, you may find that the runs of the truss are in the way. If that's the case, simply rotate the truss to remove them out of the way for your first cabinet. As you begin to install and take into account where your screen will start off the floor, keep in mind that the truss does have some obstructions due to its makeup. So you'll need to factor that in on where the clamp and the cabinet should be placed as you begin to install. I'll go ahead and have my assistant hold the cabinet while we insert the first cabinet to the truss. Should we go in here or should we go No. There we go. Are you good? Okay. So with just two clamps in place, the cabinet can support itself. Now at this point, we'll make sure that we're completely level, and we'll also look for straightness when it comes to the alignment of our other trusses. We'll then install a second cabinet. In this case, we will have a cabinet that will attach to this truss, and in the middle, there will be nothing. We'll incorporate a bracket at that point. First, we'll go ahead and get the cabinet installed by utilizing thumbscrews. As we're installing this, we're checking that the flatness of the panels when it comes to the top, as well as the fronts, don't have any reveal of the cabinet. We want to make sure it's completely smooth and level at the top, and also on the front. This is really important to pay special attention to this as you're installing the cabinets. Once you have it level and flush, tighten down your thumbscrews with your Allen wrench so that you don't have any movement of this positioning. I'm going down and feeling that the cabinet adjoined is completely flush. If I need to make a micro adjustment, I simply loosen the thumbscrews and can pull the cabinets forward or back until they meet. As soon as they meet, I lock in the thumbscrews. As we build the screen, you're gonna need to incorporate the brackets that were included with the shipment. The long brackets will be your perimeter. The square brackets, which I'll show you shortly, will go in between the cabinets. To install the brackets, you'll simply take the bracket onto the back side and insert the screw from the front side. We'll take the square plates and attach them to our inside units so that we can then attach our next row once we're ready for that. It's important as you begin to install your cabinets that only two be attached without the assistance of someone holding it. Once we have our third cabinet in place, we do need to take the weight off until we attach the next grouping of clamps that will then tie this whole section together. We advise no more than three cabinets be attached together until the next vertical column of truss. So right now, this is not level. In this case, we need to lift the cabinet up so that it's completely flat and then pull it forward. Once we have that, I'll have my assistant go ahead and lock down the thumbscrews really tight. Now that is completely flat on the top as well as flush on the front side. This is going to allow the modules to completely sit flat, making a seamless and flat screen surface when we attach the modules. So now that we have three cabinets installed, we'll go ahead and check level to ensure our screen is completely level, and then we'll add more cabinets to complete our first row. Again, we're working from the bottom up. Once we established our first row, it's now time to add the weight and to tie the truss bases to the stage floor once you are content with its final location. Once we do that, we'll then go ahead and continue on with our second row and continue on until the screen is finished. It's important that as you're building that the brackets are installed along the way. This is gonna provide that extra support between cabinets. You do have the thumb screws that are making that attachment point for your installation, but we want to reinforce that with the brackets. All of the brackets and the bolts to attach those are included in your kit. Gosh. As we're building the screen, the one meter cabinets, which are the larger ones, will be at the bottom. As you approach your top, if your screen has a half meter or a five hundred millimeter cabinet, that will be your final row at the top of your screen. Reference your playbook as that drawing will show you exact placement of your cabinets in relation to the size of your screen. As we're placing another row on top of the cabinets, there are sections where the cabinet will catch the pins on the bottom cabinet. You find that locking point. Once you find that, the first thing to do is attach your thumb screws, paying attention to the flush and flatness of the adjoining cabinet. Before you get installing, be sure to notice the up arrows on the cabinet and the hub board. The orientation does matter when it comes to the installation of your cabinets. So as you begin the installation, take note of these on the cabinets. Now that we have our column attached, we have to remember to attach also the bolts that tighten and attach that bracket that we pre applied after we finish this row. So the bracket is already in place. I just need to go ahead and feed the bolts through. So on the edge of your screen, you'll want to make sure that the clamp swings inwards. If you do it in reverse, the bowl and wingnut may be visible from outside your screen. So to make a nice clean appearance, orient the clamp as shown on the edges of your screen, so that it swings inward and tightens from inside. Before you install your modules, it's important to look over the sides of the screen also for your thumb screws on the left and right side. Sometimes they are pushed all the way in, therefore making the bolt visible from the side of the screen. To back that out and lock it in place, I'm just gonna unscrew it a little bit, and it locks it from going out. So now that we have our cabinets attached to the rigging, we'll now move into electrical and data, and then finally, installing the modules. Be sure again at this point that the bases are weighted correctly and attached to your stage if your playbook is calling for that.